Last day in Rishikesh, Delhi

India Part 3 is just about over. Sitting in my usual web spot along Main Bazaar road in Paharganj, Delhi, then heading back to my room for what will hopefully be a restful sleep before my flight tomorrow.

Wednesday night, after blogging about my cough, I was up until 2 am because of it. It was awful. And it was accompanied by intense head pressure and sinus pain. Around 1am, I broke down. For once, my Indian tears were not ones of joy or healing, but rather of exhaustion and exasperation. The next morning, I was up at 7:30 to continue packing and go for breakfast. At 10am I had an appointment for a facial with the mother of the kids from Children of the Ganges whose home I had been to a few times. It was wonderful and the steaming part relieved my congestion. Did some last-minute shopping before meeting Swati to go for lunch at her friend's home near her mother's, did some more shopping in Rishikesh market (bought a beautiful yellow sari), went to the ENT (eyes, nose and throat) specialist and found out I had Allergic Bronchitis. Never thought I had allergies, but looks like I do. Got some meds that have helped tremendously. (Still coughing a bit, but nothing like that last few days.) Then we went to Swati's mom's for my final dinner, where we had kitcheri, chai and gujia. I practiced wrapping my sari, and I think I've finally got the hang of it. As I was on my third practice attempt, Swati said: "You're becoming a real Indian woman!" Amit came to pick us up, and once again, 4 of us (with Arnav) piled onto the scooter for the ride home. Farewells to the lovely Gupta family, then up to my room for final packing. With my newly purchased small suitcase, I managed to fit everything in.

By the time I was done packing and coughing, I only fell asleep around 1. Alarm went off at 4:30am, Amit picked me up at 5 and drove me across the bridge to my taxi pickup. Four people on the scooter is much less scary than 2 people with several heavy pieces of luggage! Thought I might topple off the back  a few times as we went over bumps, but made it safely to the waiting cab. 40 min drive to Haridwar, where I was catching my train to Delhi. (Much less eventful train adventure than last year, when I couldn't find which train car I was supposed to get into, and ended up having to run alongside the moving train and jump onto the steps, holding onto the side rail for dear life, as someone grabbed hold of my 50 pound suitcase.) Dozed in and out of semi-conscious sleep-dream for most of the 5 hour train ride. Checked into my room around noon, took a short rest, then out for some final purchases. Back to room, final pack, short nap, then out to meet Leo (my Argentinian hang drum playing neighbor from Ananda, who was also in Delhi for the day) and a couple of his friends for dinner.

And just like that, this year's Indian journey once again comes to an end.

India, you continue to stir my body, mind and soul.
You continue to tickle my being.
You continue to open my heart.
You continue to illuminate my path.
You continue to guide me towards new realities, new worlds.
To lead me into divine and magical realms.
I am forever grateful. Thankful.
But now, after 3 years, I feel ready to change the 'you' to 'I'.
I am my own guru, I am my own light, I am my own healer.
I am my own infinite source of Love and Joy.
I AM.

Namaste India, till next time!       

Coughing, coughing, and coughing

Yup, that pretty much summarizes my last few days in Rishikesh. I always get a very sore throat when I get home from India, joking that the air at home is too clean compared to here, but this year the sickness came early. I'm on day 5 now, and Swati said "Erika, it's time." She always tells me I'm crazy for waiting so long to see a doctor (I tried ayurdvedic medicine, salt water gargling, 6 different kinds of teas, but nothing seems to work. So tomorrow, she will take me to a throat specialist near her mother's). It's the kind of cough where every breath is an unpleasant tickle to the throat, bringing about painful dry coughing fits. At night time, when it's at its worst, I'm practically in tears. And sleeping has been quite difficult. Haven't had a good sleep since the barking dogs night at Maa Yoga Ashram last Friday. Dr. Amrit's brother noticed. When he saw me today, he said: "You are lacking vitality. You look weak. Are you ok?" Either I look much worse than I thought, or as an ayurvedic doctor he's quite perceptive of these things.

Ok, so there's been a little more to the last three days than coughing...

Went to my last Trika class Monday morning then did some end of trip shopping, and in the pm went to Maa. There, I wrote another blog post for Amrit's site and he took my pulse (part of an ayurvedic examinatation). He told me my vata was pretty out of whack, which would explain my difficulty sleeping. Vata is related to air and movement and stress, which would make sense with the crazy days I've been planning for myself, and trying to fit in a million things before leaving. I think the Dr's orders would be, "Shanti, shanti, take it easy, slow down". I have. A little. Did the hour-long walk back to my room, rested a bit, then headed to Children of the Ganges with Swati. That night I had planned an art project with them. I had accumulated many plastic water bottles since arriving, and, not wanting to contribute to the already horrendous pollution here, I wanted to do something with them. So each student got a bottle to decorate or make something out of. Bird feeder, basket, animal, smiley face... I was happy to be making recycling fun :)

Tuesday morning I went to my last Iyengar yoga class with Ashish. I woke up with congestion and ear pain on top of my throat soreness and coughing, so I hesitated about yoga, but went. So much for taking it easy. I was exhausted during class and had to lie down a few times. That afternoon I walked to LaxmanJhula to do more shopping, and in the evening went to the Trika lecture on Polarity of Energy. Then met Swati for our dinner date. We went to a nice recently opened resto together. On our way back she said to me, "Usually it's Amit who gets home late after closing his shop and running errands at the market, but tonight, it's my turn!" I was happy to offer her a night out, away from her regular duties at home. 

This morning was my last yoga class with Anup. Again, I should probably have slept in and rested, but I didn't want to miss my final class. Lots of pressure in my head and sinuses. Like in yesterday's class, I stopped a few times when I needed to, and even fell asleep during savasana, which never happens. This afternoon I went to Tapovan for my last visit with Amrit. I wrote a final post, had an organic ayurvedic lunch with those who were staying there, had several teas that were good for temporary throat soothing, and discussed my "project" action plan with Amrit. Very exciting collaboration possibilities in sight! Speed walked back to meet Swati in time for Children of the Ganges where I had organized games and videos for my last visit (for this year) with the kids. We had a super fun evening, and I was even offered a flower by one of the little boys :) I then invited Swati up to my room in the guesthouse (I had been to her place so many times, but she had yet to visit my "home"). We chatted, I made some tea, and showed her my recent purchases. And now I'm here, writing my second to last blog for India Part 3! Off to bed, hoping that tomorrow's consultation with the throat specialist will bring about a small miracle, and that I will be able to travel to back Delhi and to Montreal without coughing all over my train and plane neighbors...      

Home in a week!

Another quick update, with just a week left!

Friday morning I prepped some articles for Amrit and planned the yoga class I would be sharing with his teacher training group. Headed to Maa Yoga Ashram early afternoon, peak sun and heat, so took a rickshaw partway. Browsed the bookshelf in the office and typed up a blogpost for his website, then went up to the yoga hall to teach my Anahata (heart chakra) class. It was a beautiful experience with a lovely, small, grateful group. Later down to dinner with everyone, after which Chris from Newfoundland serenaded us all with his voice and guitar. I had been invited by Amrit (Dr. Raj) to stay a night at the ashram, so I then settled into my room. It was a lovely big room with mountain view, but the night was rough one. The dogs barked incessantly, screechingly high and loud all night. I was used to them disturbing my sleep from time to time, but never anything like this. It just didn't stop. I don't know how they didn't lose their "voice". After a few hours, I began having very un-yogic thoughts about them. I managed to doze off a few times, for a few minutes.

Then, at 7am, there was a soft but constant knocking on my room window, and when I drowsily opened my eyes and looked up, there was one of the staff peering in and pointing to a cup of chai he was holding. Slightly annoyed, but happy to be getting a nice warm wake-up drink, I opened the door and thanked him. I headed onto the balcony with my tea and watched a beautiful sunrise over the mountaintops. Took a book from Amrit's library down to the garden for some reading before heading to the office and writing a third article/post. Had breakfast out in the sun with the yoga group, did some more reading, then chatted with Amrit about my 'wellness community' project, and brainstormed some possible collaborations. Things are coming together very nicely and unexpectedly! Quick lunch before starting the long walk back, pausing once at the Honey Hut for refreshing cold coffee (needed a little energizing after my sleepless night). Back to my room for some downtime, then met Swati and Arnav to head to Children of the Ganges. It was their Saturday dance class, the last one I'd be attending, so for the first time, rather than just watch and film, I joined! Had lots of fun dancing with them, as they giggled at my Indian moves :) They remembered some of the French I taught them, and a few said 'Bonjour!" as they walked in :) Back home for an early night.

Today was the last satsang Mooji. While Prem Baba heals the heart, Mooji inpires us to remember who we are. Both have brought me so much this year. I had planned to go for my yearly Ganga dip on the way back from Mooji (half hour walk along the Ganga), but the clouds had covered the sky, and no spot called to me. Will now have to squeeze my swim into my busy last few days. I spent my then free afternoon starting my project mission statement and action plan (which Amrit suggested we work on together at our next meeting - giving me the little push I need to get this ball rolling!). Went to my last Trika bhajans tonight, beautiful as always.

A closing quote from Mooji about the meaning and purpose of satsang:

"Satsang is the invitation to step into the fire of self-discovery. 
This fire will not burn you, it will burn only what you are not."        

Sound Journey, Dr.Amrit Raj, Satsang

Ouf! With just over a week left in India, there just aren't enough hours in the day. It's going to be a crazy last few days - as though the previous ones weren't! So, in light of this, I will to be brief(er) in my final blogs. But I have so much to share!! But still, I will try. Ok, point form.

- Tuesday morning: up to rooftop at 6am (after only falling asleep around 1) as light rain begins. Rain picks up. Loud thunder and lightning as I listened to Charles Aznavour on my balcony. Torrential rain, as if to wash away all the colors from Holi. No electricity. Calmed enough by 8:30 that I was able to walk down to Ashish's for a great Iyengar class. Delicious muesli-fruit-curd-honey and chai for brunch. Sat by the Ganga to write more articles for Dr. Raj. Then to the rooftop yoga hall of a fancy hotel for a Sound Journey that my neighbor in Ananda, Leo, invited me to. They didn't do much advertising, wanting to keep it intimate, and after attending, I was so grateful for the invite. There were 3 musicians: Leo and 2 others, who played various instruments while walking around the hall as the 8 of us in attendance sat with eyes closed, absorbing the vibrations of the sublime sounds circling us. There was a hang drum, a didjeridoo, cymbals, singing bowls, flute, rain stick, and few other instruments I don't know the name of. It was out of this world. Back to the banks of the Ganga to watch the sun set. Sky cleared beautifully after this morning's rain.

- Wednesday morning: up at 7 for yoga at Prem Baba's from 8-9. Then Honey Hut for breakfast and reading The Times of India and The Hindustani Times. Back to PB's ashram, sat in front garden waiting for satsang to begin, as his sangha (his people, his followers) were doing their seva (selfless-service, karma yoga) around the ashram. It was incredibly beautiful to watch. People smiled and sang and chatted as laughed as they swept, mopped, gardened, cleaned toilets. Satsang was lovely as always. Then walked further uphill to Maa Yoga Ashram for my meeting with Amrit (Dr.Raj). On the way, for the second time this year, I stepped in fresh cow poo. Again with my eyes averted from the ground due to trying to avoid oncoming traffic. In French, we have a saying, "Jamais deux sans trois", so I'm expecting a third dung step before leaving. Once I arrived, I was invited to join Amrit for a delicious organic Indian lunch as we chatted. I would love to say more about the chat, but it would take up pages and pages. Those I will see back home will hear more! It was a fabulous and fruitful meeting. He invited to join his yoga class from 4-6, where we did some asanas (postures) in the hall and some pranayam (breathing) on the balcony, overlooking the majestic mountains. During asana, he said, "In some yoga classes, the teacher checks for alignment. In this class, I check for smiles!" After class, he showed me to his office, brought me a laptop, and I typed away, writing my first article/blogpost for a popular website he is a contributor to. I will share it with you soon. My first topic was The Power of Surrender. Many more are brewing. Dinner was brought up to me as I wrote, and after publishing, I was driven back to RamJhula by his personal chauffeur. Gotta admit, I felt a little like royalty.

- This morning: Early yoga at Prem Baba's again, Honey Hut for breakfast again, and then back to Prem Baba's for the final satsang of this India season. I felt a tinge of sadness knowing it was over until next year, but what I felt much more strongly was deep gratitude for what this hall and the energy of these people and the teachings and love from Prem Baba did for my soul. As satsang started today, like on the first day I was here two years ago, the inner gates opened and tears flowed. Tears of release, tears of recognition, tears of joy. I smiled through the tears, I sang through the tears, I danced through the tears. But by the end of satsang, the tears had stopped. And I was left with a feeling that, this time, I had not experienced in previous years. I felt a deep sense of stillness, of quiet, of peace. And I held it in my heart. And it remains.

- This evening I went to Children of the Ganges and taught them French. Their big eyes, their big smiles and their enthusiasm filled my heart with even more love than the day already had.

(Earlier, I mentioned a hang drum being played at the sound journey. It's an instrument I heard for the first time here two years ago at Trika bhajans. I immediately fell in love with the sound of this magical instrument. Here's one of my favorite pieces, enjoy!)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=xk3BvNLeNgw&list=PL269B827E21C20BAD

HOLI - my third and best one yet!

On Sundays, I read the Bible and I go to church. That is, I read the Indian "bible" - the Bhagavad Gita - and go to the church of Awareness and Being - satsang with Mooji. But this morning, due to it being the eve of Holi, Mooji was cancelled. A kind driver at the rickshaw stand informed me of this, rather than taking me there and back, and making some cash. As I walked back across the RamJhula bridge, tons of Indian tourists were already flocking in for Holi, the festival of water and colors that celebrates the victory of good over evil. Once over the bridge, I stopped on a bench by the Ganga to read this week's chapter (11) of the BG - The Yoga of the Vision of the Cosmic Form, which ends with one of the most significant verses of the text, where Lord Krishna (symbolic of God, Consciouness, Universal Energy, or whatever else you might wish to call it) says to Arjuna:

55. He who does all actions for Me, who looks upon Me as the Supreme, who is devoted to Me, who is free from attachment, who bears enmity towards no creature, he comes to Me, O Arjuna!
COMMENTARY:This is the essence of the whole teaching of the Gita. He who practises this teaching attains supreme bliss and immortality. Such a one realises Him and enters into His Being, becoming completely one with Him. This verse contains the summary of the entire Gita philosophy.

That afternoon I did a little reading on the balcony of Ananda, then, unusually, took a long and deep daytime nap. Felt a little off that morning, and a good rest was the perfect remedy. That evening I went to Swati's, where I participated in a small puja (devotional ceremony) that she and Arnav and her mother-in-law were performing for "small" Holi (eve of Holi) where we lit a flame in front of a tower of dried cow dung patties, gave offerings of food (some gujia sweets we had made at her mother's) and walked around it a few times. Then it was time to carry the small tower down to the Ganga, adding it to the huge bonfire that was being built. Again, there was lighting of candles and circle walks around the structure. And finally, a quick stop at the temple for more acts of devotion. Geeta (mother-in-law) bought Arnav and I some yummy kulfi (indian-style hard ice-cream bar) before heading back to their place for a delicious thali dinner. Dessert before dinner, that's the way to do it! Did a puzzle with Arnav and chatted with Swati before walking home. It was the full moon and a beautiful night, so I headed up to the rooftop of Ananda for a short moon meditation, a few rounds of chandra namaskar (moon salutations), and another short med, bathing in the bright light and energy of the full moon and cool breeze. In the distance, I could hear loud dance music, coming from the Holi dance and bonfire. Last year, I went down to watch with Geeta, but this year, I opted for my rooftop.  

Monday morning I was back up there, this time for Surya Namaskar (sun salutations). I watched people in their yards get ready for "big" Holi, filling buckets, balloons and water guns with brightly colored water. Back in my room, I gathered my ammunition - a small watergun and a bag of pink powder, put on my Holi clothes (stained from my previous two Holis in India) and carefully walked out into the warzone. I stayed safe down the alley, but once on the main road, I started my sprint towards Swati's, attacked from all sides by buckets of water and fistfulls of powder. I was drenched and multi-colored by the time I reached safety in her home, where I helped Arnav fill water balloons and ate a yummy Holi breakfast snack Swati had made. Then it was up to the roof to start our attacks on those below, laughing and cheering as we hit our targets. I played with Swati's family and their neighbours for about an hour, before heading over - as promised - to the home of the kids from Children of the Ganges. As their "house" did not have a rooftop we could climb onto, we played in the yard, the 5 kids and I, as their mother brought me plate after plate of sweets and snacks. The girls kept calling me didi, big sister. Doesn't take much to be adopted into an Indian family! Back out into the wild streets, I made my way back to Swati's, played a little more on the roof, where one of the neighbours got me good with a bucket soak. The action died down early afternoon (it's a morning-only war), so I stayed a while to dry up in the sun, then went home for a shower to scrub off all (or as much as I could) of the colored powder all over me and lodged in my ears, nose and even mouth. Did a couple loads (probably my last, yay!) of bucket laundry, then took it easy for the rest of the evening. Even after a full and very active day, I was still going strong past midnight, reading up on ayurveda and brainstorming/writing for the articles I had happily agreed to work on. My first meeting with Dr. Raj is tomorrow - can't wait!

(Check out some fabulous pics of Holi on Google Images!)     

Splendid Saturday

What a day I had yesterday, full of synchronicity and joy. Was up at 7 to make it to an 8 o'clock free yoga class at Prem Baba's ashram (where I had tried my first kundalini class last year). There are several free daily activities there besides satsang, and Saturday morning was gentle hatha-trika yoga. It was only a one hour class, and I couldn't believe how soon we were in savasana (final relaxation). It went by so fast compared to my regular 2-2 1/2 hour classes here. Then I walked further up the hill to the Honey Hut for breakfast, a modern cafe where I sipped on Honey cafe latte and munched on a honey blueberry muffin while reading the honey fact booklet on the table. It's a spot I've been a few times, which Cindy and Loraine loved. I had planned to wait around till 11 to attend satsang, and then around 2pm walk up to Tapovan for the International Ayurvedic Herb Festival I had seen advertised in Prem Baba's hall. Sounded like the perfect accompaniment to my course and readings. But since I wasn't sure exactly where or how far the location of it was, and not wanting to do too much walking in the hot midday sun (yes, the heat is here!), I decided to head out in search of it right after breakfast, and risk not being back in time for satsang. I could come back to Prem Baba anytime, but this was the last day of the festival. So, off I went in search of Maa Yoga Ashram.

Walked uphill towards Tapovan (a more fancy - this is relative, of course -  part of town that I had only been to once or twice) until coming to the main road that would lead back to RamJhulah if I turned left, but when I asked for directions, I was told to go right. Walked for a while until I finally started seeing signs for the ashram. More walking, more signs, more walking, more signs... until the very end of the civilization section of the road, before it turned to just forest, the road leading further up into the mountains. The ashram was tucked away down a side road, with a beautiful view of the Himalayas, away from the noise and hustle & bustle. I walked into the reception area, inquired about the herb festival, and the response was a lowered gaze, and "Ohhh, please sit down mam." Turns out the festival had been cancelled and was postponed until next month. Bummer. Or so I thought. The friendly Pradeep told me about some of their other services, programs and trainings, and I flipped through some pamphlets and pics. As I did do, Dr. Amrit Raj, the founder of the ashram and 4th generation ayurvedic specialist came in to greet me and offered me a tour of the building and grounds, and asked if I'd like to sit and chat with him in the garden. Well, sure! Pradeep took me for the tour, showing me the beautiful yoga hall on the top floor with a gorgeous view out the large windows, their 6 guestrooms, treatment rooms, and the organic garden outside. Then I met Dr. Amrit under a parasol in the garden, for some sweet lemon water and a chat. At first, he just asked me if had any questions about ayurveda, how long I was in Rishikesh for, whether I was interested in any trainings, consultations or panchkarma (extended ayurvedic cleanse) and after a short exchange, he asked me what my heart wanted. You mean, in general, in life? So I told him. Then he asked me what my heart wanted right now. And again, I told him. He sat contemplatively for a moment and said, "Here's what has come to the back of my mind. Since you do not have much time left but seem to have a sincere and genuine interest in learning more about ayurveda, and to use this information for the benefit of others through your sharing and teaching, here's what I propose. Come by here every day or every second day until you leave, I will teach you about ayurveda, and in exchange, you can help me write some articles for The Times of India (newspaper) and other magazines and websites about health and well-being. How does that sound to you? How do you feel?" How do I feel?? I could hardly believe my ears! I knew immediately that this was a perfect proposal for me. (Last year, during my astrology appointment with Prateek, he told me I should use my creativity for writing, particularly in the the form of articles...) He said I could help with generating ideas and topics, make sure the articles are well written in English, and that he would fill any medical, ayurvedic details. I told him I already had several things planned for my last two weeks, so I didn't think I could make it every day, but that every other day sounded great (not to mention it was an hour walk there and back from my guesthouse). So we scheduled our meetings, and he invited me to stay for lunch or dinner anytime I came, asked me to guest-teach a yoga class to his current teacher training group, and said his parents (also ayurvedic doctors) were visiting next Saturday and invited me to be there to meet them. He then had to go (he was speaking to Mooji's sangha that afternoon - and has also worked with many other famous people worldwide), but invited me to stay in the garden to browse some of the previous articles he had published in collaboration with other writers, so I could get an idea of what we'd be working on. When I asked him if there were any particular topics he wanted to tackle, he said, "Whatever arises naturally from the heart. Let's see," and he was off. I sat there in an overwhelmed and excited daze, hardly believing the encounter that had just taken place. And also thinking about the synchronicity of it all. Seeing the ad that morning after yoga in Prem Baba's hall; heading there earlier than planned (he would already have left for Mooji's had I arrived later), the festival being cancelled (probably wouldn't have had the opportunity for a one-on-one chat had it been taking place). So I stayed for about an hour after he left, reading (great!) articles, enjoying the peace and calm, and examining the many different ayurvedic plants and trees growing in the organic garden. I was filled with inspiration, the perfect medicine and cure for my low and heavy energy from the day before.

It was very hot on the long walk home, so I stopped several times. First at a little shop where I bargained for two beautiful summer dresses. Then further along for lunch at the East-West Cafe, a spot I had heard a lot about and walked by many times, but had never been to. It was awesome. If the Beatle's ashram had a cafe branch, this would be it. It was straight out of the sixties, its walls covered in colorful "hippie" paintings and quotes, like those inside the huts and buildings of the Beatle's ashram. And stopping that day at a resto called East-West particularly resonated since Dr. Amrit had spoken, during our chat, of the importance and beauty that could come from the harmonious joining of the two. Walked a little further down the road, stopped at internet, and then made the last leg of the journey, along the road from LaxmanJhula to RamJhula (which usually seems like a long walk, but after the distance I had gone that day, felt like a quick stroll).

Back in my room for a short rest before meeting Swati at 5pm to go to Children of the Ganges. We stopped at the small convenience store next to Amit's shop to buy treats for the kids, as we always do when I go, but this time Arnav suggested we get them waterguns for Holi instead of the usual cookies or chocolate. Great idea! Bought 20 small pichkari and a bag of colored powder. Filmed several of their dances last night as I chatted with Swati, then distributed their gifts and gave them a pink powder forehead blessing for Holi. And then it was their turn to cover my face with the pink stuff! And that night, I finally made the effort to learn all of their names (not always easy to remember Hindi names!). Went to internet again after school, and on my way back, I stopped at the convenience store for water and raisins, and two of the little girls from school, Riya-13, and Kushboo-12, were there buying balloons to fill with water for Holi ("small" Holi is tonight, Sunday, and "big" Holi is tomorrow morning). We were heading back in the same direction, so we walked together and chatted, and they invited me to come "play" Holi (water and powder fighting) at their home on Monday morning. When I said I didn't know where they lived, they said, "Come, we'll show you, it's close!" So I followed, and was invited in. They live just two minutes from my guesthouse, in a makeshift roadside tarp-covered home. They excitedly led me through the entrance, where the rest of the family - mom, dad, Kunal (their little brother who also attends C of the G), another little sister and another little brother - sat on the bed in the one-bedroom home watching an Indian version of "America's Got Talent". I was greeted with big warm smiles, and, of course, immediately offered chai. We chatted, the girls asked me to take pics of their home and their family, and we continued watching the impressive dance talent of Indian kids auditioning on TV. At 10pm, I wished them goodnight, and the girls insisted I come back on Monday morning for Holi. I promised to do so. Kushboo walked me to front gate, and Riya waved from the yard, where she was washing our teacups in the dark. I walked home with a huge grin on my face, my heart overflowing with love for these beautiful people.

What a day, what a wonderful day.
(Sorry, haven't been writing long posts this year, but I couldn't resist this time!)

One last thing. Here a few words from Prem Baba, who had also spoken about merging the East and the West in one of his recent satsangs:

"Join therapy and meditation, join East and West, join roots and wings, intuition and reason."

And finally, the website of Maa Yoga Ashram: http://www.maayogashram.com/    

Wednesday, Thursday, Friday

Had another great sleep in my new room Tuesday night. After my lovely chat with John and taking off my soaked socks, I sat in bed to eat yummy vegan chocolate cake from the bakery, and read my new book on ayurveda. They were giving them away at the yoga festival, and Loraine managed to snatch me a copy just before leaving. It's the perfect "textbook" to accompany the course I took. And then I sang bhajans to myself and fell asleep to the sound of loudly falling rain and howling winds.

After a busy 4 days with C&L, I let myself lazily sleep in till 8:30. The winds were still strong, but the sun was back out and the sky was blue. Practiced a few more bhajans before walking to LaxmanJhula for breakfast on the Buddha Cafe rooftop, overlooking the sparkling emerald Ganga. Then a superb satsang with Prem Baba - divine chants and music, surrendering to the heart, emotional healing, beautiful inspiration. Sang out loud to myself as I walked back through the busy streets. Stopped at my friend's rock shop for some mala bead shopping, then walked up the hill to Pyramid Cafe for a delicious kombucha. Home for a little rest before heading to internet, where I spent the next 3 hours catching up on blogging, e-mails, article reading, banking, etc... which I hadn't done much of when C&L were here.

Thursday morning I made my own tea for the first time - there's a communal kitchen at Ananda guest house - then met Swati at 9:30 to head to her mother's, where we were spending the day to prepare special sweets for Holi - that crazy festival of water fights and colored powder throwing that's coming up on Monday. It was so much fun being part of the sweets preparation, with several other women and girls from her mother's neighborhood joining in the work. Though it didn't seem like work at all - they chatted animatedly and laughed the whole time... hopefully not always at me and my pastry rolling skills! (Couldn't understand much of the conversation...) I took detailed notes and look forward to making these scrumptious treats (called gujia) for teatime back home! We made about 200 of the little pastries! I asked Swati if the other ladies would take some home, and she laughed and said, "No, they're all coming back to my home!" The others had spent hours on previous days helping each other with their respective batches. Such a beautiful and strong community. That night, a little more web before reading in bed.

Today, Friday, I got back to yoga... hadn't been since Monday! Had a lovely morning class with Anup, Swati's brother-in-law, followed by brunch at the Health Cafe with an Aussie friend I had met my first year here. Took it easy today, felt low on energy. Did some reading in the sun on the rooftop of Ananda then went for a mini-satsang at a nearby resto. I'm used to large satsang gatherings with Prem Baba and Mooji, but at this one, we were only 4 plus the "teacher". It was very interesting and different. Just a casual meeting where we could chat, listen, ask questions at any time. Back to my room for some toenail painting, and now I've just come from dinner at a new rooftop spot where I had one of the best pizzas and herbal teas I've ever had.

Time to get back to room for an early night. After taking it easy today, I've scheduled a busy, busy weekend for myself. Only two more weeks, still so much to pack in!

Last two days with C & L

No time for meditation Monday morning, was busy finishing up my packing. Went out for street chai at 8:30, then down to meet Cindy and Loraine for Ashish's Iyengar yoga class at 9. It was packed! Probably because the yoga festival had just ended and people were looking for new teachers to try out. They both loved his class, his precise teaching and his humour. Then they came to my room to help me carry my bags about 5 minutes away to Ananda guesthouse, my home for the next couple weeks. My room was still occupied when we arrived, so I just dropped off my luggage and we got on with our day. First stop was Oasis Cafe for an Israeli brunch (pita, hummus, falafel, shukshuka & shabiklafa), then we were off to the Beatle's Ashram. Like Ramana's Garden, this was a spot I had yet to visit, and like Ramana's, it became one of my favorite places in Rishikesh. It's about a 20 minute walk out of town, in the forest, up a hill. The weekend had been all sun and blue skies, but today was a little cloudy, making the already spooky atmosphere there even more eerie. Run-down, overgrown, crumbling stone huts and grey buildings dotted the grounds. Old and new colorful paintings and "hippie" quotes covered the interior walls. Haunting and enchanting place. (Check "Beatle's Ashram Rishikesh" in Google images for a sneak peak.) Walked back and went to Swati's for tea and to show C&L her wedding album. I'm amazed every time I see it. The outfits and festivities are so elaborate, and Swati looks so spectacular. C&L then went back to their room for a quick break, and I went back to mine for a bit of unpacking in my new lovely and clean (unlike arriving in an ashram!) room. Met back up with them for some web time and Maaza (yummy mango juice - Papa, je t'en ramene un autre?), then went to the "Thali Ashram" for dinner. It's not actually called Thali ashram, but it got that nickname because the resto there has famously cheap and delicious thali (large plate with many small bowls/sections for different dishes, like your own personal Indian buffet). Another new discovery for me, another great one! Amazing meal for 60 rupees ($1). And that was it for Monday. Said goodnight and went back to our rooms.

(A little side note from yesterday before I move on to Tuesday: after satsang at Prem Baba's ashram, we used the onsight toilets - squatter holes in the ground, C&L's first, and Cindy later commented: "It was kinda hard to pull my pants down yet hold them up at the same time!" Hahaha :) Indeed, it's a manoeuvre that requires a little practice!)

Tuesday morning I was up at 6:30 after a great sleep in my comfy, quiet, dark new room. I wrapped myself in my shawl and walked up to roof (2 floors above me - I'm on the 3rd). Lovely spot for meditation, reading, yoga, sunbathing, but I only stayed a couple minutes since light rain started coming down. Back in my room, I had a shower. That's right, just shower - no bucket! Felt like a 5-Star hotel! Shortly after, I received a text message from Loraine, telling me they would not be meeting me for breakfast as Cindy had gotten sick during the night and still was. They had been doing so good with the food and drink! Not sure what caused it, but it was nasty for a while. She had come well-prepared, so didn't wait too long to take meds and antibiotics - especially since they were traveling that evening: taxi to Haridwar and train to Delhi. Luckily, the meds helped and after resting all day, she was feeling much better when I went to her room mid-aft. Earlier, I had breakfast on my own at the Health Cafe then went to Swati's where I watched her make kitchri (ayurvedic dish made of lentils and rice). After taking some cooking notes, I helped Arnav study for his final exam in English the next day, and then he helped me with my Hindi. I told him I'd give him 10 rupees (20 cents) per class if he'd be my teacher. After my first lesson with him, he tattooed a sticker that said "Great!" on my hand :) Then I went down to meet Loraine at Amit's shop so she could pick up a few things before leaving. (We actually had a lot of shopping planned that day in LaxmanJhula, and C&L both had astrology appointments with Prateek, but the pouring rain and Cindy's health kept us from a 4th very busy day. Maybe it was time for a break. Surely the Delhi markets will more than make up for the missed purchases here.) The two of us walked back to their room, Cindy was doing well, they finalized their packing, and we had a final tea together. Walked them down to their taxi in the rain, waved them off, and I was once again on my own.

But there was no sadness or feeling of loneliness. Instead, I felt deeply grateful for having had their wonderful company, and excited about what I had left in my last few weeks here. As two beautiful people walked out of my Rishikesh life, one walked in. At dinner that night, I met John, a 63-year-old francophone (odd name for a francophone - who barely speaks English - I know, but I got the story behind it on my way here tonight... I'll save it for another time) Montrealer (first I've met here this year), who now lives in Mont-Tremblant, and it was a magical meeting. Again, more on that later.

I had been sloshing around in wet shoes and socks for about 7 hours before getting home that night, and taking my socks off has never felt so good! To finish off today's post, here's what I would guess Cindy and Loraine would take home from Rishikesh if they could: Loraine - the stray puppies, without a doubt. Actually, that's not really much of a guess - she actually inquired about the procedures if she wanted to do so! And Cindy, hmmm... Ashish? (the Iyengar teacher!) And both together: the Health Cafe. The loved the food. They loved the waiter ;) And as I had predicted in my first blog about them, when they were still a little freaked out by this strange and crazy place called India, both confirmed before leaving that its charm and magic had seeped in, and they even talked about coming back! So, until next time!         

Weekend with Cindy & Loraine

Ouf! What an exciting and busy few days we've had! With the yoga festival over on Friday, Cindy and Loraine had all weekend and Monday and Tuesday free... until I filled each day with a jam-packed schedule! It was so much fun taking on the role of tour guide - maybe good practice for some future employment?

Saturday: Up early for morning meditation, reading, Hindi studying, stretching, all before meeting C&L at 9 at chai stand. We sipped our deliciously sweet and milky morning drink, then walked to LaxmanJhula, the next town over, about 20 minutes up the Ganga. The two of them were very excited about all the new shops in this area, wanting to stop every few steps to look at some new item, but due to our busy schedule, I had to keep dragging them along. We went to the famous German Bakery for breakfast - ayurvedic tea with pastries - then headed to Prem Baba's ashram nearby for satsang. As always, it was lovely. Next we stopped into the Honey Hut for delicious snacks, before crossing the street to Fab India for a little shopping. Lots browsing today, but no purchases since we decided we'd be back Tuesday morning, before their appointment with Prateek, the Vedic astrologer. Next stop was Ramana's Garden. This was the first place we went that was new to me as well, and after being here 3 years in a row, I have just now discovered the most precious jewel in Rishikesh. It was heaven. I had goosebumps all over my body the whole time we were there. C&L can testify to my overwhelmed excitement. I was inspired in a tremendous way for my eventual life project. It is a beautiful space, away from the hustle and bustle, that is at once an orphanage, an organic cafe and a school of life. They grow their own organic food, the children involved in all aspects of the mini-community, including working in the garden and serving/cooking/prepping/cleaning in the cafe. And they do it all with smiles, humor and joy. It was spectacular and inspiring to see. I could go on and on about it, but instead, here's the website: sayyesnow.org. Then a little more shopping (browsing), before walking back to RamJhula for a visit with Swati. We were invited to her home for a lovely chai and chat. Then we all headed to Amit's shop and the mini convenience store next door where C&L bought pens and pencils for Children of the Ganges (www.childrenoftheganges.com), and sweets for the kids. Then it was off to school for Saturday night dance class. I think C&L were pretty enchanted by the kids, their behavior, their respect, their enthusiasm, their sparkly, vibrant eyes, and their impressive dance moves! It was now close to 8pm, and C&L were ready to head back to their room for an early night before another big day.

Sunday: This morning I met C&L at the ATM, then we walked across RamJhula bridge to Madras Cafe for breakfast before squeezing into a riskshaw (their first ride!) to Mooji's ashram for satsang. His talk was beautiful and inspiring. Hopped into another rickshaw to get to Rishikesh market, where we were meeting Swati at Rajastani's (very popular and packed resto) for a yummy lunch. Then we braved the streets and shops, where Loraine found a gorgeous colorful Indian silk "suit" for her 10-year-old daughter. Lucky girl! Swati then took us to the best lassi stall in town, where Loraine wasn't thirsty for her own, but bought 3 for the little street kids who did look thirsty. It was a bittersweet and emotional moment for her, but she said it's the best she's felt since arriving. Then we all went to Swati's mom's, nearby, for a lovely visit with chai, dessert (the sweet, milky noodle soup I love so much!) and chatting (as much as we could with the language barrier). Third rickshaw ride to get back to our neck of the woods, and Loraine, who had been feeling a little off all day (but kept up until then - 6pm), decided it was time for her to head back. Cindy and I continued on to the Trika hall for bhajans, a beautiful and enchanting evening of singing and music. We then went to the Health Cafe for dinner, and called it a night. Back in my room, I started packing... Monday was moving day!

More on that and my last two days with Cindy and Loraine in the next post!

To finish, a quote by Ramana Maharshi that is on the homepage of Ramana's Garden's website:

Till you reach the state of jnana and thus wake out of this maya, you must do social service by relieving suffering whenever you see it. But even then you must do it, as we are told, without the sense “I am the doer,” but feeling, “I am the Lord’s tool." You must help the man as a means of worshipping God in that man.

1st week of March

Yes, I'm still alive and kickin', just slackin on the bloggin!

So, March. It's been splendid. In every way.

Last Sunday Cindy and Loraine arrived safe and sound, and greeting them at the rickshaw stand was definitely the highlight of my day. (Although that morning's massage, which I will describe later, came a close second!) They were both pretty drained from the 30+ hours of travelling (they did it straight, like I did, without stopping in Delhi), but have since quickly adjusted to Indian time and regained their vigour. The initial transition from business class Qatar flight service and lavish airport lounges to Indian "first class" (emphasis on the quotation marks) rail travel was a bit of a shocker, and the first couple days here in Rishikesh were no love affair either. But I'm pretty sure it's growing on them, and there's a lot more smiling and relaxed expressions and enthusiasm than upon arrival. Surely India will work its magic on them, even if just a little. From Monday to Friday (today), they were busy with activities at the yoga festival held at their ashram, so we just arranged to meet once a day for lunch or dinner. But this weekend I have an action-packed schedule for them, including some activities I haven't even done yet in my last 3 years here. Excited about those! But sharing and showing them around what I've already experienced is such a joy as well :)

Sunday morning, before they arrived, I went for THE best massage of my life. It was a 1hr ayurvedic oil massage (abhyanga), where two little Indian ladies with phenomenally strong hands worked their magic all over my naked body. Yup, even the underwear comes off here (women massage women, men massage men). They cracked and rubbed and pulled tensions, knots and pinches right out of me. And the massage was followed by a 10-min steam bath to sweat out all the toxins that the oil massage pulled up. All for a whopping $12.

After an intensive month of yoga (4 hours a day, 6 days a week) and a spectacular massage, my body is once again moving and opening and healing in remarkable ways.

Today I completed my 10hr ayurvedic theory course, and I couldn't be more pleased. So much fascinating and valuable info to integrate into my daily life.

Yesterday, I spent an hour and half on bucket laundry. Two loads. Might sounds like a long and gruelling time, but when done mindfully and meditatively, it's just as pleasant as any of my other daily activities. And after a month of bucket showers and bucket laundry, I've re-developed my expertise and particular techniques.

But... Monday, I'm moving! To the guesthouse owned by Swati's parents-in-law, where there are showerheads and laundry service! Hallellujah!

That's it for now, going to go get a good night's sleep so I can be a lively and energized tourguide for Cindy and Loraine this weekend.

Wishing everyone Love and Joy and Peace.  
     

Shivratri, etc.

Just as I was starting to take the weather for granted - long stretch of warm sunny days - the rain and cold returned yesterday for Shivratri, the annual celebration of Shiva and Parvati's wedding. Rishikesh is quite crowded at this time, with hoards of Indian tourists coming here to worship on this holiday.

This past week I had my period, which I was particularly happy about... no, not because I was worried about being pregnant, but because in my tough morning yoga classes, the teacher often says, "Menstruation, don't do." So it was my turn for a break! I got out of a very strenuous chaturanga segment, and was instructed into a comnfortable restorative pose instead. Ahhh, the joys of being a woman!

I'm loving my ayurveda course, halfway through. Learning such interesting and useful things. Bought an ayurveda cookbook for when I get home. (Until two days ago, I had only bought one book since arriving - very controlled for me! Then I bought two more, the cookbook and one on Chakra Mantras.)

Wednesday night I attended the karma yoga lecture at Trika. It's always a great one. Here's a beautiful article I had read a few days before that expresses what karma yoga is really all about: http://yogainternational.com/article/view/the-yoga-of-work-love-your-job-love-your-life

Some Swati wisdom: A few days ago when I was walking home from school with her, she said, "I'm going to go to the temple and then to get medicine," but I understood, "I'm going to the temple to get medicine." I asked, "You're going to the temple to get medicine?", and she said, "No, temple then medicine!" And we giggled. But then she added, "I can get medicine at the temple too - I can pray." I thought that was beautiful. And yesterday when I was at her home watching her kneed the dough for chapatis, I said, "That looks like a great arm workout!", and she replied, "Yes, that's why I don't need yoga!" And later, while doing dishes, she asked me about how exactly a dishwasher works. After I explained in detail, she said, "And that's why you need yoga in the west!" Hahaha. We had a good laugh about that.

Rain has been on and off since yesterday morning, not like last time's endless monsoon. Sun and heat are scheduled to be back in full force to greet Cindy and Loraine on Sunday :) 

Quick updates

- Midweek I switch my morning yoga from Ashish (Monday-Wednesday) to Anup (Thursday-Saturday), and Sundays I give myself a break. Late afternoon, I either go the Trika class or to Children of the Ganges.
- I didn't end up going to the wedding I was invited to, because Swati wasn't feeling well and I didn't want to go alone (though it would have been perfectly acceptable for me to do so). Really, all I wanted to do was see the bride and groom and fill my belly with delicious Indian buffet food. But instead, I practiced - yet again - sleeping through a wedding right outside my window. And I'm getting really good at it! In fact, that night, I had my best sleep of the week! On other nights, I am bothered by barking dogs, mosquitos, and my bathroom door banging from strong pre-sunrise mountain winds.
- On Friday, I ran into a lady who was in my TTC group last year, and an Australian girl I met my very first day here in 2012. Fun to see familiar faces :)
- Weather keeps warming up... soon I will be complaining about the heat. Yesterday I packed away my fleece sweater, tuque, mits, legwarmers, and sleep socks. Yay!
- Studying a lot of Hindi on my veranda in the afternoons... I'm going to make Swati proud :)
- Sunday, my day off from yoga, I went to my first Mooji satsang this year. It was lovely. It was funny. It was sad. It was uplifting. I look forward to being there again next Sunday morning (just before meeting Cindy and Loraine who arrive early afternoon!). That evening, Swati and I went shopping in Rishikesh market (loud, crowded, crazy, exhausting) for school supplies with money donated from a friend. Delicious pumpkin soup and cashew-date ball at the Health Cafe to end the day.

- Words of wisdom from Mooji:
"Allow your mind to fall in love with your heart again. It is a beautiful connection."

Bhajans, yoga, ayurveda & Mooji

So, where were we... ah yes, Sunday night bhajans. They were beautiful. They were led by a British couple I had seen several times at Prem Baba. Christian played the guitar, flute and shruti box (a mini-harmonium without the keys, just wind), and Angela sang angelically. The rest of us (about a dozen) joined in the singing when we caught onto the melody, some also playing others instruments (tablas, shakers). We sang to Shiva to awaken and praise the masculine, and to Matta Ganga to awaken and praise the feminine. What a divine way to spend a Sunday evening.

Monday morning I was back at Ashish's tough Iyengar class. Mornings are still crisp, but afternoons are glorious. On that one, I stopped by the Health Cafe for a fresh Spirulina Lime Revitaliser juice in the sun. This is the life! That night, another wedding in the ashram yard. It took me a while to fall asleep, but once I was out, I was out. The next morning I heard they had been banging pots and pans around 2am, but somehow, I slept through it!

Tuesday morning yoga with Ashish. Went to Swati's in the afternoon and it was my turn to teach Arnav a game today. I had brought along a tiny travel domino set and we played a few rounds. That night, Swati and Amit invited me out for dinner at her favorite restaurant for south Indian dosas (crepes made of rice and black lentils). While the three of us rode there on the motorbike, me squeezed between the two of them, Swati riding side saddle on the back since she was wearing a sari, she jokingly said, "People will think we are kidnapping a foreigner!" Hahaha :)

Wednesday morning I was laughing hysterically in Ashish's class when he had us kick up into handstand with the "other" leg. If you can do a handstand, try it (against a wall). Do one naturally, with whichever foot automatically goes up first, then try one with the the other foot. I felt totally physically incompetent! I finally managed to stay up after about my tenth attempt. That afternoon, I went for my first ayurvedic consultation, where the doctor takes your pulse, asks you a series of questions, then tells you what your doshic constitution is and how you should adjust your diet to balance your doshas. Turns out I'm about 70% kapha. I know the basics of what that means, but will know lots more next week, when I will be taking 10 hours of private ayurvedic theory courses with the doctor who did my reading. Along the same theme, that night I attended my first Trika lecture this year, the one on alternative healing strategies. Always a good one. I make sure to go to that one every year. It's a little different each time, with a different focus depending on who gives it and what their experiences have been. No matter who gives it, they always rave about urine therapy. I think that after hearing about it three times now, I might finally be ready to try.

Random bits: getting by on an average of $15 a day, including food, accommodation and yoga; Weather is warming up, and no rain in the long term forecast; while I'm learning a lot from Ashish, starting my morning with strict and intense yoga certainly sets a different tone for the day than the loving energy from Prem Baba's satsang. I look forward to his return from the mountains. But in the meantime, Mooji has landed. His satsangs actually attract a much larger audience than Prem Baba's (a couple thousand versus a couple hundred). I went to him once last year, and will go again this year, but do prefer the more intimate gathering at Prem Baba's ashram. Prem Baba is Brazilian, Mooji is Jamaican.  

Off for some fresh juice and reading in the sun :)

  

Yoga, Rain, Weddings

After 3 evening classes with Ashish, I decided to switch it up mid-week and try Anup's (Swati's brother-in-law's) morning class. Another great teacher, but tough work first thing in the morning! In the 2-hour class, we did about an hour of surya namaskar (sun salutations) with several difficult variations. When I arrived in class I was wrapped in my blanket and had my tuque on, but by the end of those surya-s, I was wishing for AC. Anup only charged me half price for the class, and when I insisted to pay full, he said, "No, no, you are family."

Difficulty falling asleep that night - the moon was full, the dogs were howling, and there was loud dance music coming from speakers in the distance. Around 11, the rain started, and everything else got quiet. And then it rained, and rained, and rained. Not like last week when it was on-and-off for the day, but full-on monsoon style. It did not stop for a second for almost 24 hours. And didn't even settle to a drizzle. Downpour.

In the morning, I bundled up to run through puddles to Anup's class. Spent the afternoon cooped up in my room, reading, writing postcards, coloring while listening to Echoes: The best of Pink Floyd, and napping. Made it to the Trika afternoon class, before running to town for dinner, which I ate shivering and wet.

Next morning, after studying some Hindi, which I try to do every morning, I went for my 3rd class with Anup. This time, he went around giving everyone a head, face, and neck massage during savasana (the final relaxation). Now that's how every yoga class should end!

That day, the rain was on-and-off, but when it rained, it was torrential. One of those downpours happened while I was visiting Swati, chatting, drinking tea, and getting some explanations for some Hindi questions I had accumulated from my morning studies. The rain wasn't letting up, so I stayed longer than usual and played with Arnav (who has no sibblings - yet - and was thrilled to have a play buddy. First we made clay dice and I used them to practice my Hindi numbers. Then he taught me a board game - the name of which I don't remember, but it was like a cross between air-hockey and pool. Mid-game, I heard Swati call, "Erika! Erika! Come to the window, it's snowing!" What?? But it was hailing! Haha. That night I went for the weekly dance class at Children of the Ganges, and when they were done their Indian dance practice, I taught them a few ballet moves. Even the boys didn't hesitate to try them out. The dance teacher's brother is getting married on Thursday, right outside the ashram where I'm staying, and she invited me to attend... another Indian wedding :) Amit came to pick us up on the motorbike so we wouldn't have to walk through puddles in the rain to get back. We piled on and I held his umbrella over the four of us until he dropped me at my ashram gate.

As I walked up to my room, colder than ever (it was probably about 5 degrees - at night - which might sound good to you guys back in snowy Canada, but that's 5 degrees without heating!) I noticed a lot of activity in the ashram yard, where I had seen festive tents being set up yesterday. Great, a wedding tonight. Attending a wedding is one thing, but trying to sleep through the screechingly loud and pounding music so close to my room is another. It went non-stop from 8pm-4am. So I had to try sheltering myself from the cold as well as the music. Slept with my tuque, scarf, mits, an extra heavy wool blanket over my sleeping bag, my eye-mask and earplugs. Needless to say, there wasn't much sleep to be had. Glad it was Saturday night, and that today, Sunday, is my day off from yoga, so I didn't have to worry about waking early.

Did my first 2 loads of bucket laundry today - the sun has returned! (But it's still quite cool.) Just roaming around this afternoon, stopping to read in the sun and getting fresh fruit juice. Tonight, I will attend bhajans (chanting) in the Trika hall. Haven't been to them since my first year here, and I'm really looking forward to it. Alright, time to get out and catch some more rays!      

This and That

A few tid-bits/highlights from the last 3 days:

- On Monday, I started my yearly Indian sugar-free week. Hardly miss it this time. Except for not having a sweet morning chai to start the day, and drooling a little as I walk by the displays of the many, many bakeries.
- Ordered a plain banana porridge for breakfast, and was pleasantly surprised when it came topped with cinnamon, raisins, cashews, almonds and dates... yum! (Still ingesting natural sugar.)
- Went into a bookstore for the first time this year, and bought my first book... Uh-oh. It has begun.
- Usually, at satsang, the musicians sing, but today, Prem Baba sang. It was absolutely enchanting.
- On my walk back from LaxmanJhula to RamJhula, I bought some street food for lunch to save a few rupees and a few minutes. But getting street food means, well, eating on the street. I was walking and munching on a pakora out of the newspaper bag, when a long-limbed grey monkey jumped towards me and started clawing at my bag, and another joined in. I was impressed with myself for laughing instead of screeching, and I actually managed to twist and turn my way out of the monkeys' grip, wrap the food and bag in my shawl, and be on my way unharmed and with my food intact. I've seen this happen to a few other people, and they usually just surrender and throw their food on the ground to get the monkeys away from them. Guess I could have fed the poor creatures too...
- As I was at internet later that day, the music out in streets suddenly changed from soothing mantra chants to... Eminem! What a strange and unexpected shift.
- That evening, I went for my first Iyengar class by a teacher that was recommended by my British neighbor at the ashram. Holy heck, my body has never been worked so intensely. Iyengar is very physical style of yoga, focused heavily on the understanding of anatomy, how our bodies work, and proper and safe alignment. And they don't mess around! But despite the intensity of the class, the teacher (an unusually tall Indian guy) has a great sense of humour, making for a pleasant class atmosphere. (Unlike Usha Devi's class - she is a very well-known, though I might say infamous, German-Swiss Iyengar teacher. There is no lightness of atmosphere in her class - she is a full-on drill sergeant. She repeatedly hits people, has them hold postures for as long as 20 minutes, picks on people to demonstrate so that she can rip them apart and show how badly they are doing the posture, insults people and is condescending. Yet, her classes are among the most highly attended and sought after in all of Rishikesh. I keep telling myself I should try one just to see for myself what it's like, but the more I hear, the less I want to go. And as a teacher myself, her pedagogy just doesn't sit right with me.)    .
- On Tuesday, Prem Baba spoke of his favorite mantra, Prabhu Ap Jago, which is all about awakening love. The musicians' rendering of it was sublime.
- Went for my second evening class with Ashish (the Iyengar teacher), a little sore from yesterday, but feeling energized and ready for the challenge.

- Wednesday was the last satsang with Prem Baba until March 5th. He and his people are going up into the mountains for a 2-week silent retreat. It was a special and emotional satsang today. First, the musicians played and sang for longer than usual as they were being video-recorded. (This will be uploaded onto his website - I'll let you know when its up, definitely worth a watch and listen.) Then, there was a special dance performance for the One Billion Rising movement (http://www.onebillionrising.org), bringing awareness to violence against women. As the women in red danced with lit candles, accompanied by a spoken/sung poem about this issue, there wasn't a dry eye in the hall. I'm getting choked up just thinking about it. (I hope this performance also makes it onto the video montage.) Prem Baba then spoke about how all that is wrong with our world today is rooted in the disrespect, aggression, and lack of worship towards women, Mother Earth and the divine feminine.
- That evening I went for my third class with Ashish, enjoying it more and more each time, as my body opens up and adjusts to his meticulous teaching.
- Had a delicious thali for dinner.

- Sleep is pretty much back on track, except for sometimes being awoken by the incessantly barking dog in the middle of the night (apparently in reaction to an elephant that has been roaming around in the dark).

- I was getting by on just over $10 a day the first week, but now that I've started yoga classes and doing a little more shopping, it's up around 20.

- Health: so far so good :)

Some words of wisdom from Prem Baba to finish up:
"When you are able to love the earth and all of its creations, then you are free." 

Wonderful Weekend

Wahoo!! Almost a full night's sleep after warming up my soaked wrinkled feet Friday night. At the ashram, there is a gong-like object that is hit every hour from 10pm to 6am, with the amount of hits corresponding to the time. I was asleep by 10, and woken by the sound of the gong... 1,2,3,4,5! Yay!! 7 straight hours of sleep. It's always an exciting moment when I realize I've slept through the night, and the jet-lag is finally dwindling away. Studied a little Hindi in bed, then out for my morning street chai and a quick visit with Swati before walking to Lax for Prem Baba. Today, he spoke of attachment, control, and trust. "Trust that God knows what is right for you. Trust that everything that happens is ok, whether good or bad." I do remain with a few questions about that... While he spoke of connecting with our hearts, someone's cell phone music started ringing in the quiet hall, and he said, "Ah, you see, when we speak of the heart, the music starts!" And then he broke into his beautiful contagious laughter, his whole body shaking with it. Sat in the hot sun at the German Bakery for lunch, then walked back to RamJhula. Along the way, when I was a few minutes from my room, I was maneuvering my steps to avoid a large puddle of water and an oncoming motorbike, and instead, ended up stepping in a fresh pile of holy cow poo. Wearing flip-flops. Flip-flops with holes in them. (Every year, Swati's mother-in-law laughs at me for wearing sandals that were designed with small holes in the soles, and every year, I tell myself that indeed, they may not be the best footwear for India. But they are my favorite ones, and I keep bringing them.) So, with cow poo squished up under my foot, I walked the few minutes to my room, trying very hard to withdraw my senses of smell and touch. Once all cleaned up, I walked down to river in the now very hot sun to write my first batch of postcards. That night I went with Swati and Arnav to Children of Ganges for their weekly dance class. Every Saturday night, a dance teacher comes in to teach them traditional Indian dance. It was adorable to watch, especially the boys! They all danced so enthusiastically. Had dinner with them and then home for an early night.

Decent sleep, 9:30-4:30, when I was awakened by an incessantly barking dog. Then on-and-off sleep till 7:30. Daily routine followed: morning chai, internet, breakfast, Prem Baba, postcard writing in the Parmarth Niketan courtyard, then met Swati and Arnav to head into Rishikesh town for dinner at her mother's. We met her in the market, did a little shopping, walked to Triveni Ghat for Ganga Aarti, then home to her mother's for some chai, a visit across the street to her lonely great aunt's (whose husband died a few months ago - saw him last year when he was very sick), then back to her mother's for a yummy dinner. She remembered my favorite dessert from last year and had made it for me: tiny noodles cooked in sugary milk. (I realize that might not be a very appealing description, but it really is yummy!) And Swati's mother offered me a precious gift: a wool sweater she had knit for me. Wow, what a gem. Who gets hand-made clothes anymore these days?? Amit came to pick us up on his motorbike, and the 4 of us (Amit, Swati, Arnav and I) rode home in the dark.        

Back into a Rishikesh routine

Left off when I was headed out for some morning chai on Thursday. Street chai has almost doubled in price since I first started coming - it was 6 rupees the first year, 7 the second, and now 10... that's 12 cents, 14, and 20... might not be able to afford it soon! Then I walked over to LaxmanJhula, the next little town 20 minutes down the river, to Prem Baba's ashram. For reasons I didn't quite comprehend the first time I went two years ago, but that I am slowly starting to understand, I get teary-eyed every time I attend satsang there. While the uncontrollable sobbing from year 1 has passed, my eyes still well up from the energy in that hall, the sublime and invigorating chanting, and the healing love emanating from that man. Saw many familiar faces as usual: a guy who was at Doha airport, a couple who were also on the flight from Doha to Delhi, a man from the Delhi train station, Gabriel (an Argentinian sailor who lives in Spain, whom I shared the bus ride and tuk-tuk ride with from Haridwar and Rishikesh), Sapna, Laura and Angela (three of my teachers from level 1 at Trika), and Prem Baba's followers, who are there each year (some of whom have children that I've seen grow up).

Walked back to my room for a bucket shower, then to the Trika hall across from my ashram room for the afternoon Surya Namaskar (sun salutation) class that I always enjoy so much. Tom, a Scottish man who was in our group for the level 1 intensive in 2012, was also back for some drop-ins. Like me, he spends a few months here every winter. As we chatted, he said: "I can't think of anywhere better to be." Then I was off to dinner. Decided to try out a more local joint, but was pretty disappointed. First, of course, it was very spicy (unlike the other spots I go that cater to foreigner tastes), and I counted a total of 6 peas in my mattar paneer, which is a dish composed primarily of cheese and... peas! And they were crunchy. Then it was off to internet to start my blog, and home to bed. Jet-lag still hadn't passed: slept from 10-2, in and out of sleep from 2-4, awake from 4-6, dozed off again briefly, then woken by loud rain and thunder outside. Great. Been lying here all night waiting for morning to come, and now I'd be suck in my room for a few more hours by the looks of it.

Around 9am, the rain settled enough to be able to head out. Breakfast at Oasis, a few visits to shopkeepers I hadn't greeted yet, then satsang with Prem Baba again. Back at my room, did a little reading then went out for afternoon chai and cookies. Another surya class Trika, then dinner and blog writing (the one where I was soaked and shivering from the rain and cold).

After a rainy Friday, we've had a splendid weekend of warmth and sun, which I will tell you all about in my next post. As Prem Baba says to close each satsang: "Blessed be each one of you, until we meet again."    

First Days

I'm sitting here with two sweaters, a wet wind breaker, two layers of pants, and soaked socks in my cold shoes. It rained on and off all day, pouring torrentially (that might not be a word) at times. Still had to walk to town because I was hungry for dinner and had no food in my room. The weather has actually been quite nice so far, but today was rather unpleasant.

Back to my arrival...

Tuesday, February 4th - Oddly enough, after 30+ hours of travel and very little sleep, I didn't crash right away when I settled into my room. Unpacked a few things and got changed before heading out to Swati's. Was greeted by frantically barking Maxi (their dog), but no one was home. Crossed her father-in-law on my way out, and he told me she was in Rishikesh city at her mother's home celebrating Vasant Panchami. That's when I walked over to Amit's shop and was welcomed home. Headed back to my room, did a little cleaning - sweeping and dusting. When staying in an ashram, there is no cleaning service between guests. The man who showed me to my room folded the crumpled blankets on the bed, swept some crumbs off the coffee table with his hand, dumped a bucket of water on the bathroom floor, and the rest was up to me! Met my British neighbor, Paul, as I cleaned, and he recommended an great Indian Iyengar teacher that I'll probably try out. Then it was time for a quick bucket bath (no shower head in my cheap room), a little journal writing on my cute veranda, and a nap. I was planning on attending the Trika lecture that night, but sleep won. I settled down for my nap at 4pm, woke at 6, got up just long enough to go for a pee, then back to bed. When I woke again, it was dark, and I was hoping it was early morning and that I got a very long restful and rejuvenating sleep. Checked the time on my phone - 10pm. I knew this was bad. I knew I had a long night ahead of me. Lay awake from 10pm to 2am, slept a little from 2-4, then awake again from 4-6. My eyelids were still heavy, but my body and mind just wouldn't give in. So, at 6, I gave up, got up, and organized the rest of my things.

Wednesday, February 5th - Had some leftover bread and jam from the train for an early morning snack, then headed out for a proper breakfast around 8. Tried out a new little resto that wasn't here last year. I was the first customer of the day, and they were still cleaning. Sat on the cushioned ground as the guy swept the low tabletops with a broom. Over the tablecloths. Very effective cleaning indeed. Hahaha. (Gotta love the 'typos' on menus in India... my fave from that morning: rice pooding - mmm!) Had a huge and very satisfying breakfast, then walked over Swati's. This time, she was home, and we had a lovely reunion chat over yummy fresh chai. That afternoon, I walked down to a bench by the Ganga to read, admire the beauty around me, and soak up the bright hot sun after a cold grey morning. Back in my room, had a little rest, painted my toenails, and studied a little Hindi. Then walked over to Amit's shop to meet Swati and Arnav (her son) and head to Children of the Ganges with them. Had a lovely evening with the adorable kids, then back to my room for an early night. Took out my magazine to read, but eyelids weighed a ton, and I was out in minutes. Slept from 8:30pm to 1:30am, then lay awake till 6. Played a few games of Hidden Treasure on my phone to pass the time (too drowsy to read). A little more sleep from 6-8, then up and out for some scrumptious street chai!

That's all for now, I'll catch up soon...

Again, some final words from Prem Baba: "Life is a mystery to be unveiled with the heart."         

Welcome Home!

That is how I was greeted by Amit (Swati's husband) when I dropped by his stationary shop after unpacking in my ashram room. Truly, this has become a home away from home, and if it's even possible, I think I love it a little more each time I arrive. It was a long journey to Rishikesh this year...

Sunday night, after a departure day as frantic as ever (I thought the third time would be a charm, but I just can't seem to figure how to get myself organized in order to leave in a peaceful state, without it being necessary for me to put to good use my deep yogic breathing), Liv drove me to the airport. Here's what followed:

- An hour at Trudeau airport, where I was selected twice for random drug and security checks... do I look that suspicious?? (The first year I came, I was concerned about the large bag of ashes I was bringing across the border, and this year, I was smuggling several pounds of... cheese. Long story.) Then an hour in the plane before take-off.
- 12 hours in the air. There was an emergency aisle seat left when I asked at check-in (yay!), so plenty of leg room. In fact, I could have done some yoga there was so much space. One Muslim man came and laid out a small mat, but it was to perform his prayers. I managed to sleep on and off for almost 6 hours, between dinner and breakfast.
- Two hour wait a Doha (land of sand and long robes) airport; 4 hour flight from Doha to Delhi (this second - more Indian - leg of the journey is always a little different from the smoothness of the first... people shoving their way down the aisle, people in the wrong seats, people making rude noises, and all of this bathed in some funky smells).
- Usually, I break up the journey by staying in Delhi a couple nights before continuing on to Rishikesh, but this year I wanted to try doing it all in one shot. So...
- Two hour wait on a bench at Delhi airport, waiting for the express metro to the Delhi train station to start running at 5:30am; 20 minute metro ride to the train station. One hour wait at the station (first thing I saw here was a woman holding onto her bare-bottomed son's arm as he squatted over the edge of the platform, pooping onto the tracks... yes, now I know I'm in India), then 4 hour ride to Haridwar. (This train ride is always a highlight of my trip. This year, aside from the regular slum scene out the window, there were plenty of kids excitedly flying their kites. I would later find out from Amit that it was a holiday - Vasant Panchami).
- From there, 5 minute walk to the bus station, and 45 minute bus ride to Rishikesh. Then, ten minute rickshaw ride to RamJhula, followed by a 20 minute walk across the bridge and up the hill to Swarg Ashram, where (thank goodness!) there was a room available. (Hadn't booked anything before leaving, and hadn't slept since my first flight, so I didn't have a ton of energy in store to keep looking for a room. How I was even still putting one foot in front of the other at this point, I'm not sure.)

I've now been here for three days. Already pretty busy and taking longer than usual to get my blog going... but I promised myself I'd try to spend less time on internet this year. So I'll stop there for now, and next time will share a bit about my first few days this time around in Rishikesh - or as Amit would say, home.

This morning, I went to satsang with Prem Baba, and after speaking about music and gratitude, he ended with this:
"Gratitude frees you from judging and complaining. Let's stay with this. Let's sing a little."
And we did. Oh, did we ever.